Blog — Joscha Oelgemöller - Landscape and Travel Photographer

One of the most significant advantages of living abroad is that countries far from my birthplace are close to my current home. Such is the case with Oman. From Frankfurt, Oman’s capital Muscat is 7.5 hrs flight time; from Iraq, it’s merely 4 hours.

That’s why I packed my camera and hopped on a flight to Muscat this summer, exploring a new country and hopefully taking some fantastic photos. Luckily my partner enjoys travelling just as much as I do, so she booked the seat next to me, and together we went adventuring.

The Al Hajar Mountain Range

In Muscat, we rented a rugged Mitsubishi Pajero. We made our way to the Al Hajar Mountain Range (INSERT MAP), specifically to the Saiq Plateau, which is famous for its labyrinth of wadis and terraced orchards, where pomegranates, apricots and roses grow in abundance. Its elevation of 2.000m makes the climate almost Mediterranean and allows Omanis to produce much of their veggies and fruit here.

The Jebel Akhdar War, which raged from 1954 to 1959, was fought here between Omani forces loyal to the sultan of Oman (supported by the British military) and insurgent forces of the interior Imamate of Oman backed by Saudi Arabia. Due to the war, the area is strewn with small abandoned villages which showcase the traditional lifestyle the inhabitants lived until they were displaced by the conflict. We hiked through the lush greenery of the wadis and glimpsed the Sultanate’s past, exploring the abandoned villages.

*Enjoying the view of an abandoned village in the Hajar Mountain Range*

Many of the resorts in the Saiq Plateau offer breathtaking views over the Hajar Mountain Range and its valleys. An opportunity I could not waste, so on our last day in the area, I woke up early, threw a jacket over my pyjama and set my camera up on our hotel’s terrace. Just before sunrise, the valley was drenched in rich dark blue tones that contrasted perfectly with the orange hues of the small village set against the slope of a hill.

However, there was a lot of wind this morning, so I was busy shielding my camera and long lens to avoid camera shake. In the end, I got a beautiful shot that reminded me of lava snaking down a volcano, which incidentally is something I dream of shooting one day.

Nizwa

From Jebel Akhdar, we snaked our way back down the numerous serpentines to make our way to Nizwa. As one of Oman’s earliest settlements, this city of 72.000 inhabitants has a rich cultural history. Once upon a time, the great mosque there served as a hub for Islamic scholarship. Nizwa became significant due to its location at the foot of the Western Hajar Mountains, which enabled trade and communication. Surrounded by a lush grove of date palms, this town still serves as a hub for most of the country thanks to its prime location at the intersection of highways leading from the interior to Muscat and the lower parts of Dhofar. The city of Nizwa has developed into a thriving metropolis with a rich history and a wide range of opportunities for recreation and relaxation.

Unfortunately, we came here on the first day of Eid-al-Fitr, the Islamic holiday that marks the end of Ramadan, which is a time for family visits, not for going out. The city was eerily empty. A few cafés were open, the market centre, one of the town’s highlights, was deserted, and all tourist attractions closed. Thus, we endeavoured on a stroll through the city to find breakfast, as our small, traditional guest house did not offer any. The town became more lively in the evening, and friendly Omanis kept greeting us with heartfelt smiles.

We spent a relaxed day wandering the city of Nizwa, taking a mental note to check holidays and local customs before coming back next time. Nevertheless, the time we spent in cute cafés and restaurants or meandering through Nizwa’s narrow alleyways was precious.

Omani Hospitality

In Nizwa, we filled the tank of our Pajero and set off towards the Wahiba Sands desert. Halfway through the road trip, we stopped at a small village next to a dried-out river bank to rest. As soon as I stopped the engine, a beaming Omani family stepped out of their house and invited us to share lunch with them. It was the first day of Eid al Fitr, a major religious holiday for Muslims. We felt honoured by the family’s hospitality. My partner went with the women and girls into a separate living room, while I was invited into the main room with the men and boys. I was told about Omani traditions for the Eid holiday, and we shared traditional Omani food.

Wahiba Sands Desert

Too soon, we had to get back on the road to reach the desert before nightfall. Stocked with strong, sweet Omani tea, we were in a good mood for the second half of our ride. Ten kilometres before reaching the desert camp, we took a right turn leaving the highway and found ourselves on a desert dirt road. Engaging the 4-wheel drive of our car, we sped across the bumpy sand and soon realised we were heading through a sandstorm. Not seeing further than 100 meters, the desert was tinted in red and orange tones with almost no visible difference between the dunes and sky.

Relieved to have made it to the camp, we soon checked into our cosy tent and enjoyed a warm dinner. We were taken up the dunes next to our camp in the evening to enjoy the sunset. We were a group of about 20 people, and finding a composition without a head sticking into the image took a lot of work. After a while, I found a satisfying set of dunes and took this photo.

The following day we woke up at 4am to be taken further into the desert for sunrise, where I was planning to take another couple of photos. Sunrise in the desert was one of the most peaceful moments I have ever enjoyed. The absolute calm, the stunning beauty of the sand dunes and the morning light on my skin made me feel relaxed and overjoyed. It is no wonder, then, that I took some of my favourite photos that morning.

Turtle Reserve, Wadi & Muscate

As it was too hot to stay in the desert during the day (surpassing 50 degrees Celsius), we packed our things. We made for the coast, where we had rented an Eco tent in a turtle reserve. We booked two expeditions, one after sunset and one at sunrise, to venture into turtle territory. Although it was the off-season, we were lucky enough to witness a giant mother turtle covering her freshly laid eggs and a baby turtle making its way to the ocean waves. After enjoying the soft sunrise light at the beach, we headed to our last stop at a popular Wadi to enjoy a summer hike.

As it was still the Eid holiday. The wadi was a popular location for families that enjoyed their picnic and company. After finishing the hike, we returned to Muscat, where we checked into a beautiful hotel where we would pamper ourselves to relax from our road trip and digest all the fresh memories.

Whether you have been travelling in Arab countries before or not, I highly recommend visiting Oman. The country has a great diversity of natural landscapes, villages and cities, making it a unique destination. Its people are some of the most friendly people I have met on my travels, and photo opportunities are endless. I will certainly return.

If you are considering travelling to Oman and have questions, feel free to contact me via the contact me page.